Malcolm X
Malcolm X, directed by Spike Lee, is based on the 1965 book The Autobiography of Malcolm X, written by Alex Haley and Malcolm X. Malcolm X continues to be a controversial figure of the civil rights movement, and Lee’s film seeks to provide context and understanding by sharing his life story. The epic film follows Malcolm Little as he struggles with the death of his father, experiences racism, and turns to crime, ultimately landing in prison. There he discovers Islam and changes his name to Malcolm X, leaving behind the surname Little. For Malcolm, the X represented his unknown African ancestors. When released, he works with the Nation of Islam and becomes a visible force in the civil rights debate, calling for Black nationalism. Malcolm X was assassinated in 1965. The film follows Malcolm X’s life through several decades, requiring Carter to create costumes that correspond to each time period. Carter’s costumes give insight into Malcolm’s emotional and philosophical shifts that accompany his various life stages. Research is always a pivotal part of Carter’s process. For this film Carter contacted the New York City Department of Correction to gain access to Malcolm Little’s prison file. The letters and records she uncovered provided an intimate portrait of Malcolm, allowing her to fully understand his transition from street hustler to political and religious leader. Carter expertly conveyed this transformation, dressing the character in zoot suits before he was incarcerated and conservative suits and ties after his religious awakening.
Carter received her first Academy Award nomination for her costumes in Malcolm X.
Film details
Malcolm X, 1992
Characters Malcom X and Shorty played by Denzel Washington and Spike Lee.
Materials
Wool, cotton, and silk
Credit
Courtesy of Ruth E. Carter Costume Archive
Notes
The zoot suit was an extreme variation on the full cut “drape suit” of the 1930s. Young men (and occasionally women) in cities across America purchased oversized suits and had them tailored in the zoot suit style: full, balloon-like pleated trousers that were pegged and a jacket with exaggerated, padded shoulders. The look was usually completed with a porkpie hat or a fedora, a long watch chain, thin belt, and matching shoes. No one person can claim the invention of the zoot suit as they were worn by working-class Mexican American, Filipino American, Japanese American, and Black American communities and were rooted in youth culture.
In the 1940s, the zoot suit was seen by some as unpatriotic due to the excessive use of fabric during a time when wool and silk were being conserved for soldiers fighting in World War II. This rationale was used to justify acts of violence against zoot suiters, who were often young men of color, and led to the Zoot Suit Riots which began in Los Angeles before spreading to other cities such as Detroit and New York City.
Supporting Imagery
Film details
Malcolm X, 1992
Character Betty Shabazz played by Angela Basset.
Materials
Synthetic
Credit
Courtesy of Ruth E. Carter Costume Archive
Notes
The white dress and head covering mark Betty Shabazz, wife of Malcolm X, as a member of the Nation of Islam. Like many religions, the Nation of Islam encourages traditional gender roles and modest dress.
Supporting Imagery
Supporting Imagery Notes
Angela Bassett and Denzel Washington
Film details
Malcolm X, 1992
Character Malcom X played by Denzel Washington.
Materials
Wool, cotton, and silk
Credit
Courtesy of Ruth E. Carter Costume Archive
Notes
In describing the costumes for Malcolm X Carter explained, "each stage in his life deserved a different color palette since his mindset was different in all the stages of his life. When he is Malcolm Little and Detroit Red, the color palette is playful with the zoot suits. When he is incarcerated, the palette is a blue like he is being cleansed. When he emerges as Malcolm X, there are black, white, and grey notes for his clean, strict, and unwavering devotion to the nation of Islam." This dark suit, was worn during the time that Malcolm X was fully immersed in the nation of Islam.
Supporting Imagery
Supporting Imagery Notes
Sketch by Ruth E. Carter
Film details
Malcolm X, 1992
Characters Malcom X and Shorty played by Denzel Washington and Spike Lee.
Materials
Wool, cotton, and silk
Credit
Courtesy of Ruth E. Carter Costume Archive
Supporting Imagery
Supporting Imagery Notes
Sketch by Carter
